FREQUENTLY ASKED Questions
Can you heat up a body filler to accelerate the sanding / cure time?
Yes, fillers can be heated to accelerate the cure or to adjust the cure during colder weather. The general recommendation is to not exceed 120°F (50°C) for any longer than 15 minutes.
Can an Evercoat® body filler be tinted?
Evercoat fillers may be tinted with Evercoat® Coloring Agents. If these are used, no more than 1 oz. of coloring agent should be used per quart of filler (5% by weight). Adding more than that can interfere with the curing process.
What's the difference between a fiber reinforced filler, a regular filler, and a putty / finishing glaze?
Fiber reinforced fillers provide strength and durability to the repair area when needed. These reinforced fillers contain fiberglass and are normally used over a welded area, to repair surface cracks in fiberglass, or to fill small holes, etc. A regular filler is typically used to repair dents, to smooth out rough fiberglass, and should be used over fiber reinforced fillers as fiber reinforced fillers will not provide a smooth enough finish for priming and painting. A putty/finishing glaze is basically a thin body filler designed for finish work over body filler and to repair small minor damage, such as door dings, hail damage, and scratches.
Can Evercoat fillers be applied over bare metal? Can they be applied over paint?
Evercoat fillers are designed to work over bare, properly prepared substrates such as: steel, aluminum, galvanized metal, fiberglass, and SMC. Fillers and putties will normally work OK over properly sanded (80-180 grit) cured OEM paint. However, with so many different types of aftermarket paint available (lacquer, enamel, urethane, water-based), and without knowing the extent of the cure for the paint, or age of the paint is unknown we generally recommend that all paint be removed where filler is to be applied.
How long should I wait to apply body filler over an epoxy primer?
Some coating manufacturers may have a defined time and procedure for the application of polyester filler, so contact the coating manufacturer for their recommendations. If there is no defined time or procedure a general guideline is to allow 24 hours and sand that area lightly with P80 up to P180.
Can polyester fillers be applied over a self-etch primer?
No. The phosphoric acid in most self-etch primers that are used for automotive refinishing inhibits the cure of the filler and creates an adhesion problem. If a corrosion protection coating is preferred we recommend to use an epoxy primer and follow the coating manufacturer's recommendations.
What sandpaper grit should I use to sand Evercoat fillers?
Evercoat fillers and fiber-reinforced fillers should be sanded with P80 grit and finished with P180 before applying a finishing putty. The general recommendation is to sand the filler or putty with the same grit that was used to prepare the surface. This provides a higher quality finish at the feather edge of the repair.
How much cream hardener should be used to activate body filler?
Polyester fillers require a 50:1 mix ratio of product to cream hardener. An easy way to do this is to dispense a ribbon/bead of cream hardener from edge to edge across the center of a 4" (10cm) diameter puddle of filler (2% by weight). Puddles larger than 4" in diameter will require additional hardener.
Why is the body filler sticky or soft to touch?
The filler may not have been catalyzed properly. Make certain the mixing directions for the cream hardener were followed. Filler should be applied between 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit (15-32°C), so be certain that the product and substrate are at similar temperatures. If the material is only partially cured, it should be removed and then reapplied.
Why did the body filler not adhere properly to the surface?
The surface was not properly prepared or was made of a material the filler could not bond to. The surface should be sanded with P80 grit sandpaper, then wiped clean with acetone. Some filler’s may not bond well on some surfaces such as galvanized steel, aluminum, SMC and other plastics.
Why do I have pinholes in the body filler?
Pinholes are a result of trapped air in the body filler. Applying the filler too thick can also cause pinholes. To eliminate pinholes, you must properly mix and apply the filler. For more information on the proper technique visit our YouTube Channel.
Can body filler be thinned?
Evercoat fillers may be thinned with Evercoat® Plastik Honey #101249 to alter the consistency. No more than 10% resin by weight should be added. Evercoat fillers can also be thinned with a premium polyester putty and finishing glaze such as Metal Glaze® Ultra, Metal Glaze® OEM™, or Metal Glaze®.
Can you use a polyester resin as a coating without using a fiberglass fabric?
No, resin alone has no strength and will crack if not used with fiberglass cloth, mat, or tape. The strength of Fiberglass Resin comes from fibers or cloth saturated within the resin. Second, polyester resins do not have a UV inhibitor built in, so they need to be finished with a UV protective coating to avoid damage from the sun and exterior weather.
What do I do if the finish gel coat is sticky all over after hardener has been mixed into the resin part and proper cure time has elapsed?
Because the finish gel coat is waxed it is most likely an incorrect mixing ratio was used when combining gel coat and hardener. Use 12 drops of hardener per ounce of resin; 11 cc of hardener per quart of resin or 40cc of hardener per gallon of resin. Remove the as much of the uncured layer of gel coat as possible before reapplying. You can use acetone to clean the surface of any residue of uncured gel coat. Follow with an application of properly mixed gel coat.
What do I do if the gel coat is still tacky (finger leaves a fingerprint) after hardener has been added and proper cure time has elapsed?
If a Premium Gel Kote (#105673, 105675, 105676, 105677) was applied without the use of a Mold Release agent (#105685), the surface will remain tacky. This gel coat is a laminating gel coat, and it is designed to remain tacky between layers for easy re-coating. Apply another layer of the laminating gel coat and follow with a Mold Release. If the One-Step Finish Gel Coat was used and this occurred it is likely caused from improper catalyzation, or the liquid hardener has lost some of its potency or power with time, and/or because of adverse storage conditions.
What's the difference between laminating gel coat #105675 and One Step Finish Gel Coat #105671?
The surface of Laminating gel coat remains tacky for re-coating purposes. This product requires a mold release (#105685) to be sprayed over the final coat to inhibit the oxygen which will allow the gel coat to completely cure. One step finish gel coat is ideal for smaller repairs as it does not require the use of a mold release agent for complete cure.
What's the minimum temperature that Gel-Coat can be applied?
We do not recommend our gel coat be used at temperatures under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures less than 60 F can promote cure related problems. Adding extra hardener is not a solution for using gel coat under 60 F. Gel Coat should always be catalyzed at 2% by weight.
How can Gel Coat be applied?
Gel coat can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed. Best results are usually achieved by spraying with a gun designed for Gel Coat.
Can Gel Coat be reduced to make it more sprayable?
Gel coat can be reduced up to 15% by volume or 10% by weight with acetone.
What type of gun do I need to spray Gel Coat?
A pressure pot or catalyst injection system should be used for spraying gel coat. A quality primer gun with a 1.8 or larger fluid nozzle will also get the job done. Never over-reduce with acetone in an effort to make the gel coat more sprayable. This can weaken the gel coat and cause a loss of gloss or adhesion issues over time.
Can Gel Coat be tinted?
Our Gel Coats can be tinted with Evercoat® Coloring Agents at a maximum of 1 oz. per quart of gel coat. Adding color to white gel coat will produce a pastel color and adding color to a neutral gel coat will produce a bold color. We recommend to use a base of a white or pastel color before applying a neutral gel coat that has been tinted.